This past year at PRI, it seem that the most popular new product was the in-car camera. Every row of the show had 3 or 4 booths set-up with flashy big-screen TV's tuned into more track-day footage and eager company owners shoving little black boxes in my path. Since that show, I still receive at least a few e-mails a week showing off even more cameras and recorders! What really set me off was one of the more recent devices - the unit seriously looked like a 80's-era Sony Walkman, with buttons that didn't even line up correctly. For ONLY $1600!!!
7 years ago, I decided to buy my first digital camera. It was a Nikon Coolpix 4300. Top of the line 5 megapixel camera for something like $500 camera. The other day, I went shopping for a good pocket-sized camera. Nowadays, a basic digital camera offers well over 5 megapixels, with the newest pocket sized units starting at less then $200! With the average price of motorsports camera systems well over $1000, this got me thinking about what you were really getting with a motorsports branded system.
Here's the lowdown on prices in this industry - most things that we carry are designed for a niche of a niche market. This means that production and sales for any given piece of safety equipment will NEVER reach levels that you may see in the mass market. If the HANS device became a fashion sensation overnight and started showing up at Macy's windows around the world, its price would most likely fall drastically. When you make more of any given item, its production costs will decrease incrementally. So, when you build a camera system that is only marketed to the race market (and can only realistically be used in a vehicle environment) it will never, ever sell as well as, say, a Sony video camera at Sears. We may all think that everyone needs a video camera in their car, but realistically, only a small percentage of the population actually subscribes to the motorsports hobby.
I did some comparing of your typical consumer electronics video camera, and your basic motorsports camera. Most of the pricier motorsports cameras use a bullet camera of some sort. Bullet cameras were not designed for cars - they were initially manufactured for security systems. It just so happens that the same easily mountable and hidden camera that catches shoplifters works great for getting those neat action shots on a moving vehicle. The problem with Bullet cameras is that they limit the recordable resolution of any camera system. Many Bullet Cameras that you see included with motorsports camera systems are manufactured to similar specs and then rebranded with "X" name. They are held to a 640x480 resolution. For comparison, I went to CNET.com and searched for high-rated, flash-card style video cameras. I found a little pocket camera manufactured by Flip that carried a 1280x720 resolution (720p). Price: about $200 depending on who you ask.
With higher resolution available from the consumer electronics pool (ie, better quality picture), then what do you really get when you buy a dedicated motorsports camera? First, most motorsports cameras record to a unit that can be mounted anywhere in the car independent of the camera lens. This allows you to put the weight where you want to in the car, and put the lens in any cool location (like in the grill!) Second, is durability. However, aside from the bomb proof camera (read: VIO), a solid-state recorder is a solid state recorder. (Let me stray from comparison for a moment. If you purchase a video camera for motorsports use, solid state - also known as flash/SD/Compact cards - recorders are the most ideal. Any recorder that uses a hard-drive with moving parts will be damaged by the vehicle vibrations. MiniDV/tape recorders are more durable but tend to be more cumbersome. Solid State is arguably the most durable, with the least amount of moving parts.)
So, short of weather (or bullet) proof cases, you'll get the same amount of durability out of most any solid state recorder. The final advantage you may get is the ability to have multiple lens angles recording to a single unit. Be careful with this since not all multi-lens systems do this the same way. Most will record only to a picture-in-picture file, with the small/large image selection made prior to the recording. I've seen others that split a single image file into 4 sections. Upon reviewing the footage, you cannot select which view you want to be the primary! A good multi-lens system will record to separate files that you can edit later.
So the final question is, Do you have to spend $1000+ to get good video footage into my car? The short answer is, No. Feature-per-feature consumer electronics cameras will always be cheaper then motorsports cameras. The build quality is almost always nicer, and the warranties are probably a lot better. Most, if not all, come with excellent video editing software that is much easier to use then what the smaller motorsports companies are able to develop. You don't even have to worry about syncing to your data acquisition system - Trackvision (Trackvision.net) is an excellent piece of software that will sync to almost any format of vehicle data-acquisition file. And if you want to use a bullet camera for those awesome bug-in-your-face shots, many basic video cameras come with video inputs - add to this a stand-alone bullet camera available from many online sources (about $100).
To summarize, if you absolutely have to have multiple lenses that show-off your fancy footwork alongside with your amazing cornering prowess, then look into the motorsports specific cameras. If you can get past the complex installation, some of the pricier units will record each camera image to a separate file. I would avoid the split-screen multi-cameras systems - these record into a single file, meaning that your great event footage is forever trapped as a split-screen recording.
On the other hand, if you just want a basic camera that points forward, go to your local electronics store and shop for flash video recorders. In short-time, I guarantee you'll be impressed by the options, video quality, and above all else, ability to purchase an extra set of race rubber or that Hans device you've been putting off!
Friday, February 13, 2009
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Sportscar Magazine - Safety First
Just received the latest issue of Sportscar Magazine; the March 09 issue being the requisite, yearly "safety issue". I was sort of disappointed in the lack of information - a total of 7 pages (including advertisements) and 2 articles were devoted to the subject. First was a comparison of SFI 38.1 Head & Neck Restraints; second being a short Q/A regarding racing suits. Both contained great information, but really, if you're going to headline safety, then headline safety!!
Like I mentioned, the short articles made some good points. I won't comment on the head & neck restraints - the comparison was well thought out, and I think we've all heard enough of Hans, DefNder and the litigation surrounding them all! If you don't have a device already, pick up a copy of this magazine and find out some of the finer points before making your investment.
I would, however, like to add some input to the suit questions raised:
What is the correct fitment of a racing suit? Should it be tight, baggy or somewhere in the middle?:
Chad Dimarco (Sube Sports), Bob Zecca (DI Racing), and Jeremy Curtis (G-Force) concurred that is should be somewhere in between. Recently, I've seen many customers attempt to buy suits with as tight of a fit as possible. Several of these came back a few months later with torn seams. Obviously, this is the economical reason why NOT to buy such a tight fitting suit. If you're trying to make yourself look slim, a gym membership or a pair of running shoes are a much cheaper way to go. Even though tight pants and tight shirts may be the fashion norm these days, they do not extend to race cars!! Tight suits also present quite a safety risk. Testing shows that some of the most severe burns will occur at the knees. Why? Because the fabric of the suit is almost always stretched tight at this point. Part of the effectiveness of a multi-layer suit is not just the extra material; rather it's the pocket of air created between each layer of material. Each pocket creates an insulation point from the heat - by stretching this thin, you remove those insulation benefits.
Too baggy of a suit will cause not only comfort issues, but may hamper getting in and out of the vehicle. If you are not one of those lucky few that happens to fit perfectly into a certain suit size, you will need to choose a size that fits each and every one of your proportions comfortable. Don't suck in your gut to fit in that size 58. Instead, buy a size 60 and deal with the extra material elsewhere, or get a custom suit. We regularly order custom suits through Sparco; the base custom measurement charge is $175 and is available on suits as inexpensive as the Sparco 6.
Is there a benefit to wearing fire-resistant underwear even if the GCR does not require it for your suit?:
As the aforementioned panel of experts all agree, Yes! Here's the deal - if you have an huge phobia of getting burned, call us and we will get you an SFI-20 Drag Racing Suit. These suits are designed for the self-navigated guided missiles that rocket down quarter-mile tracks. They will also give you the longest period before second degree burns occur. However, as they are typically 3x the weight of a traditional suit, they are the last thing you want in the middle of summer! The next best thing is combining underwear with your traditional SFI-5 rated suit to literally add another layer to your ensemble.
One expert went even further explaining the benefits of underwear wicking sweat from your body and the obvious performance benefits of keeping yourself cool. It should be noted that Nomex is not a very good wicking material. It should never be confused as coolmax or some other purpose built wicking material. It's better then nothing, but the best wicking fire-retardant fabric is probably Carmyth.
What's the best method to clean and store my race suit?:
I agree with the article - Dry Clean. Alternately, there are also some chemicals on the market specifically designed to clean Nomex and even increase its effectiveness. Molecule comes to mind. If you insist on washing your suit with any other method, make sure to hand-wash or use a gentle cycle with mild, mild detergents. Sparco includes a cleaning bag with some of their suits - similar bags are available elsewhere in the world of clothing care. Get one of these bags to prevent your delicate Nomex fibers from getting caught in the complex machinery of your washing machine!
The other important piece of advise I saw was airing out your suit after it is used. This goes for ALL of your racing gear. Taking your dirty, sweat soaked laundry and balling it up into the inner recesses of your closet is a fantastic science experiment you are welcome to share with your kids. Be sure to take pictures afterward and send them to the CDC. Air that stuff out - I've had the privilege of installing more then one set of Hans anchors into a mildewy helmets Yes, I wear latex gloves in these cases. And no, don't be offended when I run off to the bathroom to scrub my hands with disinfectant!
Like I mentioned, the short articles made some good points. I won't comment on the head & neck restraints - the comparison was well thought out, and I think we've all heard enough of Hans, DefNder and the litigation surrounding them all! If you don't have a device already, pick up a copy of this magazine and find out some of the finer points before making your investment.
I would, however, like to add some input to the suit questions raised:
What is the correct fitment of a racing suit? Should it be tight, baggy or somewhere in the middle?:
Chad Dimarco (Sube Sports), Bob Zecca (DI Racing), and Jeremy Curtis (G-Force) concurred that is should be somewhere in between. Recently, I've seen many customers attempt to buy suits with as tight of a fit as possible. Several of these came back a few months later with torn seams. Obviously, this is the economical reason why NOT to buy such a tight fitting suit. If you're trying to make yourself look slim, a gym membership or a pair of running shoes are a much cheaper way to go. Even though tight pants and tight shirts may be the fashion norm these days, they do not extend to race cars!! Tight suits also present quite a safety risk. Testing shows that some of the most severe burns will occur at the knees. Why? Because the fabric of the suit is almost always stretched tight at this point. Part of the effectiveness of a multi-layer suit is not just the extra material; rather it's the pocket of air created between each layer of material. Each pocket creates an insulation point from the heat - by stretching this thin, you remove those insulation benefits.
Too baggy of a suit will cause not only comfort issues, but may hamper getting in and out of the vehicle. If you are not one of those lucky few that happens to fit perfectly into a certain suit size, you will need to choose a size that fits each and every one of your proportions comfortable. Don't suck in your gut to fit in that size 58. Instead, buy a size 60 and deal with the extra material elsewhere, or get a custom suit. We regularly order custom suits through Sparco; the base custom measurement charge is $175 and is available on suits as inexpensive as the Sparco 6.
Is there a benefit to wearing fire-resistant underwear even if the GCR does not require it for your suit?:
As the aforementioned panel of experts all agree, Yes! Here's the deal - if you have an huge phobia of getting burned, call us and we will get you an SFI-20 Drag Racing Suit. These suits are designed for the self-navigated guided missiles that rocket down quarter-mile tracks. They will also give you the longest period before second degree burns occur. However, as they are typically 3x the weight of a traditional suit, they are the last thing you want in the middle of summer! The next best thing is combining underwear with your traditional SFI-5 rated suit to literally add another layer to your ensemble.
One expert went even further explaining the benefits of underwear wicking sweat from your body and the obvious performance benefits of keeping yourself cool. It should be noted that Nomex is not a very good wicking material. It should never be confused as coolmax or some other purpose built wicking material. It's better then nothing, but the best wicking fire-retardant fabric is probably Carmyth.
What's the best method to clean and store my race suit?:
I agree with the article - Dry Clean. Alternately, there are also some chemicals on the market specifically designed to clean Nomex and even increase its effectiveness. Molecule comes to mind. If you insist on washing your suit with any other method, make sure to hand-wash or use a gentle cycle with mild, mild detergents. Sparco includes a cleaning bag with some of their suits - similar bags are available elsewhere in the world of clothing care. Get one of these bags to prevent your delicate Nomex fibers from getting caught in the complex machinery of your washing machine!
The other important piece of advise I saw was airing out your suit after it is used. This goes for ALL of your racing gear. Taking your dirty, sweat soaked laundry and balling it up into the inner recesses of your closet is a fantastic science experiment you are welcome to share with your kids. Be sure to take pictures afterward and send them to the CDC. Air that stuff out - I've had the privilege of installing more then one set of Hans anchors into a mildewy helmets Yes, I wear latex gloves in these cases. And no, don't be offended when I run off to the bathroom to scrub my hands with disinfectant!
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Stoptech & OG Racing
If you didn't already know, Stoptech has teamed up with OG Racing as a distributor for 2009. Things have been a little crazy around here with all of the new products and getting ready for the race season - as such, we haven't had much of a chance to work on our first warehouse stocking order.
But if anyone needs it, we can always ship directly from Stoptech for the current time. Stoptech has assured us speedy drop-ship service. Just give us a call and let us know what you need!
It may be for more personal reasons then naught (my street BMW could use some fancy new eye-candy) but all of us here at OG Racing are pretty excited about this deal.
But if anyone needs it, we can always ship directly from Stoptech for the current time. Stoptech has assured us speedy drop-ship service. Just give us a call and let us know what you need!
It may be for more personal reasons then naught (my street BMW could use some fancy new eye-candy) but all of us here at OG Racing are pretty excited about this deal.
Lico Motorsports is here!
Okay - I've been holding off on this announcement for a few weeks now as this new brand trickles into our warehouse. Enough of the product is now here where I can only partially lie about it being in stock (I hate it when shops say they have something only to find out it is un-obtainium!)
So, with much fanfare, we bring you Lico. If you haven't heard, this is a new branch of Sparco that brings more economically priced racing gear with the same high-quality European designs and materials that Sparco is known for.
What do the Italians consider "thrifty"? How about a 3-layer, box-quilt tone-on-tone stitched, SFI/5 certifed suit for $265.00? (Compare that to a 3-layer Proban (no sectioning of fabric) G-Force 505 for $320.00):
DETAILS HERE
Or Sparco Top 3 Shoe (retail $219) clones for only $89.00:
DETAILS HERE
So, take a look around our catalog - Lico has brought something for just about every category. Again, a lot of the inventory is still trickling in; with your patience, we should be able to get you an excellent deal for the 2009 season.
So, with much fanfare, we bring you Lico. If you haven't heard, this is a new branch of Sparco that brings more economically priced racing gear with the same high-quality European designs and materials that Sparco is known for.
What do the Italians consider "thrifty"? How about a 3-layer, box-quilt tone-on-tone stitched, SFI/5 certifed suit for $265.00? (Compare that to a 3-layer Proban (no sectioning of fabric) G-Force 505 for $320.00):
DETAILS HERE
Or Sparco Top 3 Shoe (retail $219) clones for only $89.00:
DETAILS HERE
So, take a look around our catalog - Lico has brought something for just about every category. Again, a lot of the inventory is still trickling in; with your patience, we should be able to get you an excellent deal for the 2009 season.
Monday, February 2, 2009
Audi Commercial
I watched this last night, but apparently was wrapped in mindless Superbowl banter. Didn't realize that this commercial takes a detour through history!
New Fuel Cell Rules (NASA)
As of January 1, 2009 no new logbooks will be issued for vehicles with a fuel cell, unless the fuel cell is FIA FT3 (or higher) certified.
[This means no more newly built cars with rotary molded cells. However existing rotary molded cells with an FIA FT 3 bladder will be grandfathered.]
As of January 1, 2012 all fuel cells must be FIA FT3 (or higher) certified, regardless of the date of purchase or date of the logbook issuance.
[This is the “sunset” for all rotary molded cells. No more grandfathering.]
Other notes- We do not subscribe to the hypothesis that “any fuel cell is better than no fuel cell.” The stock tank has been crash tested in its location and at least that’s a known factor. When someone installs a fuel cell, it’s possible to create a more dangerous situation because of the location of mounting and the other things around it. Furthermore, bladders do deteriorate. On more than one occasion old bladders have sprung leaks resulting in fires. One car was a total loss. We do not believe that the stock tank deteriorates at anywhere near the rate that a bladder deteriorates. This is not to encourage people to use the stock tank, but rather to answer some questions that have recently come up.
More Here: http://www.nasanortheast.org/fuel_cell.html
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